Sunday morning was spent driving up to the Bay of Islands, stopping briefly in Kawakawa so I could go for a wee in the ‘world famous’ Hundertwasser designed loo (definitely a trip highlight).
Over a few hours in Waitangi we wandered through Busby’s House and Te Whare Runanga (the meeting house) and saw Ngatokimatawhaorua the ceremonial war canoe built by Maori volunteers, who had to be re skilled in traditional carving techniques for the 150th commemoration of the Treaty signing. I was a bit disappointed by Waitangi. There was no real depth to the information presented, no discussion about the controversy surrounding the Treaty itself and aside from one mention of Hobson and Busby’s relationship, it all seemed a bit patronising and vanilla. In focusing on the history of the Treaty grounds, rather than the events that took place within them, it felt like a missed opportunity. I understand a new visitor’s center is to be built so maybe this will allow for a richer experience.
We stayed at the Duke of Marlborough Hotel in Russell, which was the first establishment to receive a liquor licence in New Zealand. The Duke is a beautiful colonial kauri building, though it is in need of a freshen up. It is mostly staffed by people from England, which gave it the air of a British seaside pub. Slightly bizarre.
The afternoon was spent cruising around the Bay of Islands, up to the Hole in the Rock at Cape Brett and then back through the channel. Unfortunately for me there was an 18 meter swell, so I spent most of the 4 hours at sea, in the low deck, praying I wouldn’t spew.
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